Product-how "perfect" does it have to be?

Kuma5

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Generally I do my best to tame dust yet the reality is the world is not that way. Did a shot and as much as I cleaned it, it was a dust magnet. Have spent an hour already cloning, blurring, softening, etc. Still a ways off from that smooth surface free look seen in some AI generated sets. Wife commented that to her when it looks that creamy smooth it comes off as fake-AI enhanced so that is a thumb down to her eyes.

To you how perfect does it have to be? This set is a donation shot but still I want to put forth the best I can within reason. It is goign to be used online so the detail won't really show but I see it at the 950px size.
 
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Generally I do my best to tame dust yet the reality is the world is not that way. Did a shot and as much as I cleaned it, it was a dust magnet. Have spent an hour already cloning, blurring, softening, etc. Still a ways of from that smooth surface free look seen in some AI generated sets. Wife commented that to her when it looks that creamy smooth it comes off as fake-AI enhanced so that is a thumb down to her eyes.

To you how perfect does it have to be? This set is a donation shot but still I want to put forth the best I can within reason. It is goign to be used online so the detail won't really show but I see it at the 950px size.
Do the best work you can without driving yourself insane, when it comes to my own work I am one of most critical critics I know of and sometimes see things no one else would notice.
 
It really comes down to a few things: 1) client type, 2) output format, and 3) expectations. I exclusively shoot product work and for clients from mom-n-pop shops to high end bespoke jewelers. For the first thing, higher-end clients expect higher-end shots. No way around that. For some clients, there's a huge no-no in an image that doesn't reflect the product accurately 100%.

The second is the expected output format. If you are just doing web/screen work, a few imperfections might not appear or get noticed. However, if they're going to print posters/billboards, every little thing will show up. That leads to the last of expectations. Even high end clients may not notice a spec of dust on an image that's 200x200. You also get the opposite end where they're printing rack signs and every little spec sticks out like a rock. It's important to know what that output is expected, both for deliveries and effort. If you can see the dust at 950px, you'll want to find out if their site will allow the image to be magnified to that or just go ahead and edit it all out.

I tend to do my own editing, but behind most good studio shooters are really good editors. It's typically more about getting the lighting and layout perfect to get smooth gradations and exacting highlights before the editing even happens. You can configure your lighting to hide or blend dust (or accentuate it!). I have a hundred little paintbrushes to dust objects, and have spent hours doing layout and dusting before the first shot even is fired. One of my tabletop set ups has a small laminar flow configuration on the sides that I built using PVC pipe with slits and a inline fan to pump a constant small layer of air over the whole shooting table. It helps with keeping dust down, especially on gloss black background shots (glass). Even then, it's still quite a bit of time editing out dust that lands on the product above the flow layer.

There's a huge difference with shooting and editing for a pristine image vs over-editing that looks fake. Proper lighting, editing, and output won't ever look AI-generated but can still be free of defects. My clients trust me to provide what I feel is the best image and with that I won't accept a single spec of dust! With that, the blur tool is the absolute wrong tool to use - it is changing the accuracy of the product and gives that plasticky "AI" look. The only tool I'd use is the clone/stamp zoomed way in and/or masking layers. One shot may be 4-5 hours of setup/lighting, 5 minutes to shoot it, and another 4-5 hours of editing for output!

You can say that for the price, there's "good enough", but I prefer to look at it as no matter what price, free or $1M, it's my work that is shown and I don't want anybody to think that it's the best I can do!
 
Thanks Doc! I'll re-shoot it. Worked it over more and some areas don't look right when getting heavier handed. That's one aspect that I have to live with that image being out there so putting in my best effort for a clean look is important and a discerning part between photographers. (y)
 
Thanks Doc! I'll re-shoot it. Worked it over more and some areas don't look right when getting heavier handed. That's one aspect that I have to live with that image being out there so putting in my best effort for a clean look is important and a discerning part between photographers. (y)
Take your time during the reshoot! It's much better to spend hours shooting than editing. Everything that you do right "in the can" keeps the image that much more real and easier in the end.

If you're having a lot of atmospheric dust issues, try increasing the humidity in the room a bit. A humidifier helps sometimes for object that just seem to static attract every dust particle. You can also get some paintbrushes (be sure they haven't be used to paint). I have sizes from thread-like to fans to mops. Get your camera ready on a remote, get up close to your set, and despeck the camera facing side with the brushes. It sometimes helps to vacuum yourself (or go shirtless when near the set - been there!). I've also donned hair coverings (like the disposable fabric types used in cleanrooms). Live view can help too, as it allows you to see the magnified image. I always shoot live with a secondary feed sent to a small tablet I have clamped on the shooting table.

Also, you can sometimes "tone down" dust by changing your lighting a hair. The incident angle can accidentally emphasize or backlight dust particles, making them more visible. You can also wipe-down the item too with lint-free tissue/cloth like PEC pads to remove fingerprints and some dust. I always wear static-dissapating museum cloth handling gloves when I set the subject (unless it's food, then it's powderfree latex gloves). You'll be surprised what fingerprint oils look like when magnified on a subject. The skin oils also attract (more) dust.

Hopefully, you're not on a dark and/or glossy background. That's just a nightmare, no matter what you do!

The following is an outtake/test shot from a shoot on glass sitting on top of black paper. This took almost 6 hours to set up for the shoot. Dozens of pairs of tweezers to get the pieces where they need to go, lots of dusting with brushes. Not the happiest with the one squished drizzle, but it was the best of the batch sent by the client. Had 2 dozen of each truffle and went through all of them to pick the best ones. There was a lot of clear-set and start over, caused by needing to move one item and it had left a mark on the glass. Even after all that, there was still another 2 hours or so of editing to clean them up completely. There's a lot of work - and editing - and yet, it doesn't look "AI" since most of the work was done physically and not in the editing process. folio119.jpg
 
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Excellent shot! Great advise.

In this situation back lit to have some light coming through a bottle so the dust on the bottle reflected everything that settled on it.
 
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