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The Official Shoot the Milky Way Thread

From my first evening trying to get some Milky Way shots, R8 with the kit lens and some settings I found online. Unfortunately I forgot to work on focus before it got too dark, so just used best guess on the focus scale. I have no idea how to process these, and don't know how to work with RAW, so this is just a little Photoshop Elements using some of the auto enhancements and filters. Large city behind me, smaller city to the south of the mountains. Southern Arizona.

MW.jpg
 
I'd appreciate lens recommendations for my Canon R10 for milky way shots. Modest price, as it won't get a lot of use. Manual focus is fine, and I don't want a super-wide fisheye look, just to be able to include mid-ground elements. My only option now is my RF-S 10-18 f/4.5-6.3 IS STM- I imagine I'd want a faster (and sharper?) option, and not a fan of Tamron....
Thanks!
(And I'm going to Scottsdale, AZ, if anyone has any nearby location recommendations.)
The Roko 12mm f2.0 is a classic winner. Infinity focus is spot-on with the lens I purchased.

My Fuji has a feature that enables / disables shooting with a manual lens. I don't know if Canon has anything similar, but it's a pita to find that setting in the menu system. Anyway, just making a comment that the manual focus lens might not work for ya' straight away, which could be due to a camera setting.

If you're new to Astro, the cheat sheets from tb-photography are gold. Don't forget to turn off the noise reduction feature on your camera, otherwise you'll be standing around angry with yourself.
ISO is the probably the biggest decision you'll need to make. I would recommend to error around 4000 or 5000. There are some fancy techniques to pull more color at lower ISO's, but that's still beyond my trust and experience.

Also, you might consider a Nodal Ninja to shoot panos with the Roko. You can spend a lot of money, research for endless hours, or just buy something mid and proven. I highly recommend and remain thoroughly impressed with this purchase: NN3 MKII Starter Package Factory Irregular
And, you can spend a lot of time learning and setting the exact correct focal plane, or you can just mount the camera and use the bracket's indexing to shoot. I recommend to just shoot (however, leveling is important). It works fine.


(2023-0619)-Seminole-MilkyWayPano--2000_(2023-0619)-Seminole-MilkyWayPano--2026-DeNoiseAI-standard by S. Nobody, on Flickr
 
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From my first evening trying to get some Milky Way shots, R8 with the kit lens and some settings I found online. Unfortunately I forgot to work on focus before it got too dark, so just used best guess on the focus scale. I have no idea how to process these, and don't know how to work with RAW, so this is just a little Photoshop Elements using some of the auto enhancements and filters. Large city behind me, smaller city to the south of the mountains. Southern Arizona.

View attachment 100805
Awesome work, and that's your first MW shoot?! Outstanding.
I've been pleasantly surprised with Aurora HDR for processing single (not stacked) MW and night sky images. There's something about the processing in that program that works well clearing up the stars and MW. And looks like you shot at reasonable shutter speeds (maybe 20 sec?), so you don't have any issues with blurring, anyway.
 
Awesome work, and that's your first MW shoot?! Outstanding.
I've been pleasantly surprised with Aurora HDR for processing single (not stacked) MW and night sky images. There's something about the processing in that program that works well clearing up the stars and MW. And looks like you shot at reasonable shutter speeds (maybe 20 sec?), so you don't have any issues with blurring, anyway.
Thanks, first time with the R8. I tried once or twice before years ago with a T3i, never got anything worth looking at. I have a SOOC and minor processed comparison shot over in the R8 thread from the same evening.
 
Thanks, first time with the R8. I tried once or twice before years ago with a T3i, never got anything worth looking at. I have a SOOC and minor processed comparison shot over in the R8 thread from the same evening.
Good stuff! For focus, switch the lens to manual mode. Then, put the camera into live view and max magnification and use the lens focus ring to get the star points as small and sharp as possible. Then, basically don’t touch the lens again. Some people like to put a piece of scotch tape to make sure the lens doesn’t get jolted accidentally bumped out of focus but I’ve never found a need for that.
 
I'm going to be in Sedona, AZ, March 1 and 2. I've read that Cathedral Rock State Park is a great place to get good Milky Way shots. Does anyone here know if the park is accessible after hours? Looks like best time to shoot will be between 3 and 5 a.m.
 
I'm going to be in Sedona, AZ, March 1 and 2. I've read that Cathedral Rock State Park is a great place to get good Milky Way shots. Does anyone here know if the park is accessible after hours? Looks like best time to shoot will be between 3 and 5 a.m.

Their website states they're open from 8am to dusk. Someone might know more than that if there are alternate access restrictions or allowances.
 
It's been a while since I visited the POTN website, only to discover that it was closed. Nice to find this site. Anyway, I've been out of the loop. I took these pictures before my whole rig got stolen in Barcelona. Bought a new rig with the Canon R6 Mark II. Anyway, these were all taken with my old 6D and a 14mm Samyang/Rockinon. Almost all of them shot around 20 seconds with an iso between 2500 and 4000. I look forward to doing more on my new R6.

I did some light painting on the 1st and 3rd one.

i-WnJhRCw-XL.jpg


V3_DSC02431-XL.jpg


i-6ZGL3mz-XL.jpg


i-wZ5wBPw-XL.jpg
 
It's been a while since I visited the POTN website, only to discover that it was closed. Nice to find this site. Anyway, I've been out of the loop. I took these pictures before my whole rig got stolen in Barcelona. Bought a new rig with the Canon R6 Mark II. Anyway, these were all taken with my old 6D and a 14mm Samyang/Rockinon. Almost all of them shot around 20 seconds with an iso between 2500 and 4000. I look forward to doing more on my new R6.

I did some light painting on the 1st and 3rd one.

i-WnJhRCw-XL.jpg


V3_DSC02431-XL.jpg


i-6ZGL3mz-XL.jpg


i-wZ5wBPw-XL.jpg
Beautiful shots, Andrew!
 
It's been a while since I visited the POTN website, only to discover that it was closed. Nice to find this site. Anyway, I've been out of the loop. I took these pictures before my whole rig got stolen in Barcelona. Bought a new rig with the Canon R6 Mark II. Anyway, these were all taken with my old 6D and a 14mm Samyang/Rockinon. Almost all of them shot around 20 seconds with an iso between 2500 and 4000. I look forward to doing more on my new R6.

I did some light painting on the 1st and 3rd one.

i-WnJhRCw-XL.jpg


V3_DSC02431-XL.jpg


i-6ZGL3mz-XL.jpg


i-wZ5wBPw-XL.jpg
Awesome work; welcome back!
 
That’s an awesome shot! Great to have a dark site with clear line of sight almost all the way down to the horizon. Haven’t seen Polaris that far down.

I never realized Polaris was fixed based on my location. I'm feeling great to start my weekend with a new learning!
I was around 30 deg latitude, Bortle 1. It's a gift to be out there; I only get a chance maybe once a year, twice if I'm about to win the lotto, and some years I don't get to visit.

From https://skytonight.org/latitude-polaris
From ancient times sailors have known that the altitude of Polars above the horizon is the same as one's latitude on Earth.
Suppose you are in Norman, Oklahoma, where your latitude is 35 degrees north. Similarly, you will find Polaris at 35 degrees above the northern horizon.
To sail west at a constant latitude, Columbus kept the north star at a constant altitude above the horizon.
 
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