Soccer/Football Photo Thread

[PinholeR5]

 

[PinholeR5]

 

[Tats]

A few from my recent camera rentals.

Canon EOS R7 • Canon RF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM @359mm • 1/1250 • f/8 • ISO 1000
No Valley-35 by Rob F, on Flickr

Canon EOS R6ii • Canon RF 100-500mm f/4.5-7.1L IS USM @300mm • 1/1600 • f/5.6 • ISO 320
North Bergen-88 by Rob F, on Flickr

Canon EOS R7 • Canon RF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM @300mm • 1/6400 • f/9 • ISO 1000
No Valley-54 by Rob F, on Flickr

 

[pgcaldito]

Here are a couple.

1D X Mark II, EF300 f/2.8L IS, 1/1600, ISO 100, f/3.5



1D X Mark II, EF300 f/2.8L IS, 1/1250, ISO 1250, f/2.8

 

[bobpal]

 

[milo]

being one of the smaller players, my son has had to learn how to play with heavier bodies hanging on him

IMG_0611 by Kris Milo, on Flickr

 

[petereoin]

Aviva Stadium, Dublin, Leinster, Ireland; European Championships Qualifier, Ireland versus Switzerland; James McClean of Republic of Ireland challenge for the ball with Kevin Mbabu of Switzerland

 

[PinholeR5]

 

[pgcaldito]

1D X Mark II, EF300 f/2.8L IS, 1/1250, ISO 2500, f/2.8

 

[Conrad]

Some soccer between rivals!

 

[Conrad]

few more from JA vs Prep

 

[Red Dog]

Cup Final last weekend. Weather overcast and wet. Canon 1DX + EF 16-35mm f4 placed behind the goals and fired remotely via Pocketwizards using guitar footpedal.

 

[Tareq]

What camera do you recommend for sports that is an upgrade from 1DX and 1D3, be it whatever as DSLR or mirrorless of any brand although i still have Canon EF lenses.

 

[PinholeR5]

What camera do you recommend for sports that is an upgrade from 1DX and 1D3, be it whatever as DSLR or mirrorless of any brand although i still have Canon EF lenses.

I really like the R3 for soccer.

 

[Red Dog]

What camera do you recommend for sports that is an upgrade from 1DX and 1D3, be it whatever as DSLR or mirrorless of any brand although i still have Canon EF lenses.

I use the R3 as my main body now with 1dx mkiii as back up. The R3 is superb once you get used to the EVF and get it set up correctly, and understand its strengths and weaknesses in respect of the subject tracking.

 

[Tats]

For those of you that shoot manual (I'm actually in Fv) what setting do you use on a nice sunny day?

I was at 1600-2500/s and left my aperture at 2.8, looking back now, I wish I had a little greater depth of field.

I guess my question is conditions permitting, what would your ideal settings be?

 

[Jan1977]

For those of you that shoot manual (I'm actually in Fv) what setting do you use on a nice sunny day?

I was at 1600-2500/s and left my aperture at 2.8, looking back now, I wish I had a little greater depth of field.

I guess my question is conditions permitting, what would your ideal settings be?

To me it really depends on what one is after. You say you would prefer a littke greater depth of field, so raising the aperture to f4 or f5.6 should be the better option for you. I think that 1/1000 is sufficient for soccer in most cases, so that gives some leeway to increas the aperture.
In your signature it shows an R6 and I assume that is the camera you would be using. On a nice sunny day, increasing the ISO should not give too much of a noise penalty I think and the R6 can handle high ISO's well. So I expect that 1/1600 to 1/2500 for shutter and an aperture of f5.6 would still leave you with an ISO that is acceptable.

If my lens allows for it, I prefer to try to shoot f2.8 , because of the shallower depth of field. But sometimes I use the 100-500 if light allows for it, due to its versatility and and compactness in comparison with my 120-300 f2.8. I use manual and with auto-ISO usually and on nice sunny days I will set my aperature with the RF100-500 on 7.1 and pick a shutterspeed that will give me an ISO of about 800. In case lights drop a bit, the ISO gets higher, which I'm fine with for the Canon R-series especially with lots of light. If light suddenly increases, the auto-ISO can lower the ISO to 100 if needed. So I kind of build a safe zone. (If I set a shutterspeed to get ISO 100 and the light increases, the ISO can't be lowered and I will get overexposed highlights). I mostly shoot rugby, but shoot soccer on occassion as well, but the sports are similar with respect to gear and camera settings.

 

[Tats]

Thanks Jan, that makes sense.

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day here so even at 1/2500 and 2.8 I was still never really above ISO 250. On the depth of field I found a couple shots where the face and the ball weren't on the same plane - I might just try to make a point to get a few shots at different apertures.

 

[Jan1977]

Thanks Jan, that makes sense.

Yesterday was a beautiful sunny day here so even at 1/2500 and 2.8 I was still never really above ISO 250. On the depth of field I found a couple shots where the face and the ball weren't on the same plane - I might just try to make a point to get a few shots at different apertures.

With enough light, there is lots of room to eperiment. When shooting f2.8 I often have some photos where due to the action scene depth of field is too small to make it a nice shot. So then I sometimes think to myself, why not just raise the aperture and be a bit more on the safe side. On the other hand I get photos where the depth of field is shallow enough to contribute to the subject seperation, which I could not get at a higher f-number. That also is part of the reason I tend to alter a bit between cameras, but having multiple cameras makes it a bit more easy to shoot different lenses during a game. On rainy days I tend to stick more to one camera because I then prefer the f2.8 lenses due to less light and find it a hassle to quickly switch cameras when a camera is packed in a rain cover. Good luck experimenting.

 

[Anton Largiader]

Aperture-wise, I'm almost always as wide open as I can be: 1) to keep the ISO down in the poorly-lit high school settings, and 2) for separation. When I use the 1.4X the f/2.8 lenses go to f/4 and sometimes that is detrimental. For instance, shooting across a tennis court through one fence all the way to the other player. A fence is directly in back of that player, and any people or other objects behind the fence will be sharper with f/4 than they would if I could stay at f/2.8. Separation from the background is important. If you don't have an immediate background issue, it's safer to reduce the aperture.

Shutter-speed wise, I tend to go straight to 1/1000 for starts and then go from there. In bright daylight I can go way up but that's pretty rare. I really try to avoid going slower for any kind of action, although I leave a button programmed for a much slower shutter (and smaller aperture and auto-ISO) for relatively still candids.

That leaves ISO which I usually set manually. Since the athletes and/or uniforms are often lighter than the surroundings, I have to be careful with that.