Hasselblad 1000f, light leaks?

[Jeff USN Photog 72-76]

Hasselblad 1000f, I got it for $100 and ran my first roll of film through it. First I thought my meter was on the money but it turns out it was about reading 1 stop over when I compared it to 2 of my cameras. with 400 film what should have been 1/250 f/5.6 was reading as 1/250 at at least f/8
But I was mainly checking for light leaks and whether the film advanced correctly etc.
After loading the film I let the camera sit in the sun for about 3 hours. There seems to be some light leaking on the sides of the frame, seems to be consistent through the entire roll.
I ran 4 shots through Lightroom to see what I could dig out, not much.
Again to me it looks like there is light leakage on the right and left sides, the film was Tri-X that had a date of 05/2020. not refrigerated
I am going to run another roll through it.
Frame 3 is orig shot
Frame 4 is orig shot
Frame 7 in original
Frame 7-1 is best I could do in LR

 

[Jeff USN Photog 72-76]

processed in LR

 

[Jeff USN Photog 72-76]

I am thinking one thing I could do is to load a roll of film take the camera either outside or use a flat panel light source like we do for doing flats with astronomy cameras, set the camera to 1/250th, read both my light meter handheld, and my Canon 5D light meter and see and set the f stop to what they say and then do multiple exposures, +1 +2 -1 -2 stops or even half stops then process the film and see what I get. Kind of a redneck way to do it

 

[CNP]

Given the film is out of date, I am more inclined to think it's very slight edge fogging. Light leaks tend to be far more dramatic. To confirm run a roll through without letting the camera sit and bake in the sun for an extended period of time. That fogging will probably still be there, even if slightly reduced by eliminating the overheating.

With high speed B&W film I always did spot metering on the deepest shadow where I wanted to maintain detail. Typically took a couple of rolls to pin down the magic, metering combination. Bit of a pain as the developer, timing and agitation pattern also enter into the equation. Since I always bracketed those B&W test rolls, losing an image was never a problem.

OTOH Tri-X and HP4 tend to be very forgiving and precise exposure is far less critical than back in Ansel Adams day.

 

[Jeff USN Photog 72-76]

shot some more rolls with it, seems to be ok. The B&W has some slight vignetting due to an incorrect lens hood which I have now taken off.