Canon LP-E6(etc.) batteries - some random(ish) notes

[mfunnell]

Just last week, I had occasion to buy a Canon R5 mkII camera. I hadn't quite set out to do that - what I was really buying was an RF 200-800IS USM lens (and a couple of extenders), but I needed a "rear lens cap" for it, given that none of my older Canon dSLR cameras can mount an RF lens. (For the record, I'm very happy with the lens and even with the camera, though I'm not especially fond of EVFs. The R5mkII does have the best EVF I've so-far looked through - but I'm still not fond of 'em. I'm a bit of an optical finder bigot.)

What I wasn't expecting, though, was the insistence on using only a Canon-original LP-E6P battery to even be able to use all the camera's functions. While I can't say I thought much about it beforehand, it took me aback, at least a little bit, given that I have a bunch of other LP-E6 series batteries.

In something of a (near) coincidence, I'd been away for a while, relying only on a Canon 7D2 plus EF70-300IS lens (restrictive baggage regs where I went). One thing I noted there (hey, I was taking a lot of photos!) was that despite the "headline numbers" on battery capacity, my Canon-original LP-E6N battery lasted a lot longer in use than 3rd-party cheaper batteries with claimed higher capacity. That wasn't something I set out to test - it was something that drew itself to my attention. While I always set out with at least one spare battery, some "died early" and needed changing, while one did not. Only then did I note that it was the genuine Canon one (a Canon LP-E6N).

This combination of circumstances led me to look into Canon batteries, at least a little bit. My random(ish) notes:

• The LP-E6P for the R5mkII is (at least for now) the one to use with that camera. (I'm glad I ordered and received a 2nd: in Australia, at least, they now seem to be made of unobtanium.)
• The LP-E6NH, in genuine Canon guise, works fine in the R5mkII, albeit with some restriction on functions I've no immediate use for.
• The LP-E6N, in genuine Canon guise, works fine in the R5mkII, but in use means even further restriction on functions available.
• (The restriction seems legitimate, and based on the maximum current that can be drawn from the battery, not it's overall capacity.)
• Supposedly 'compatible' 3rd-party LP-E6, LP-E6N or LP-E6NH equivalents (as declared or claimed by those third parties) do not work in the R5mkII - at least the ones I've tried haven't.
• While I might be using the dodgier end of 3rd-party batteries, my experience of them (at least three different types/brands) is that their headline capacity does not check out in field usage.
• Canon genuine batteries seem to check out as claimed. (At least, the LP-E6Ns do, in both my 7D2 and 5D4. I'm guessing my recently-bought LP-E6NHs will too.)

My conclusion, at least for now, is that the 'savings' I've thought I've made through purchase of 3rd-party batteries are largely illusory. On the other hand, they have proven themselves as "useful to have" backups from time to time. Nonetheless, I think that from now on I'll just pay the money, stick to genuine Canon batteries only, and just not worry about it. Possible savings really don't seem worth any amount of fuss, at least not with my usage patterns.

...Mike

 

[RDKirk]

Just last week, I had occasion to buy a Canon R5 mkII camera. I hadn't quite set out to do that - what I was really buying was an RF 200-800IS USM lens (and a couple of extenders), but I needed a "rear lens cap" for it, given that none of my older Canon dSLR cameras can mount an RF lens. (For the record, I'm very happy with the lens and even with the camera, though I'm not especially fond of EVFs. The R5mkII does have the best EVF I've so-far looked through - but I'm still not fond of 'em. I'm a bit of an optical finder bigot.)

What I wasn't expecting, though, was the insistence on using only a Canon-original LP-E6P battery to even be able to use all the camera's functions. While I can't say I thought much about it beforehand, it took me aback, at least a little bit, given that I have a bunch of other LP-E6 series batteries.

In something of a (near) coincidence, I'd been away for a while, relying only on a Canon 7D2 plus EF70-300IS lens (restrictive baggage regs where I went). One thing I noted there (hey, I was taking a lot of photos!) was that despite the "headline numbers" on battery capacity, my Canon-original LP-E6N battery lasted a lot longer in use than 3rd-party cheaper batteries with claimed higher capacity. That wasn't something I set out to test - it was something that drew itself to my attention. While I always set out with at least one spare battery, some "died early" and needed changing, while one did not. Only then did I note that it was the genuine Canon one (a Canon LP-E6N).

This combination of circumstances led me to look into Canon batteries, at least a little bit. My random(ish) notes:

• The LP-E6P for the R5mkII is (at least for now) the one to use with that camera. (I'm glad I ordered and received a 2nd: in Australia, at least, they now seem to be made of unobtanium.)
• The LP-E6NH, in genuine Canon guise, works fine in the R5mkII, albeit with some restriction on functions I've no immediate use for.
• The LP-E6N, in genuine Canon guise, works fine in the R5mkII, but in use means even further restriction on functions available.
• (The restriction seems legitimate, and based on the maximum current that can be drawn from the battery, not it's overall capacity.)
• Supposedly 'compatible' 3rd-party LP-E6, LP-E6N or LP-E6NH equivalents (as declared or claimed by those third parties) do not work in the R5mkII - at least the ones I've tried haven't.
• While I might be using the dodgier end of 3rd-party batteries, my experience of them (at least three different types/brands) is that their headline capacity does not check out in field usage.
• Canon genuine batteries seem to check out as claimed. (At least, the LP-E6Ns do, in both my 7D2 and 5D4. I'm guessing my recently-bought LP-E6NHs will too.)

My conclusion, at least for now, is that the 'savings' I've thought I've made through purchase of 3rd-party batteries are largely illusory. On the other hand, they have proven themselves as "useful to have" backups from time to time. Nonetheless, I think that from now on I'll just pay the money, stick to genuine Canon batteries only, and just not worry about it. Possible savings really don't seem worth any amount of fuss, at least not with my usage patterns.

...Mike

I predicted soon after the release of the R (classic) that Canon's next generation of mirrorless cameras would certainly involve an entirely new generation of battery design for the battery grip, similar to the LP-19, but sized to fit the battery grip. That seemed reasonably certain to me based on the restrictions the LP-E6 imposed on the R. I'm still surprised that they haven't. It seems odd not to have ramped up to a maximum capability battery right from the start rather than this drunkard's walk.

 

[ShipleyNW]

Teach me about Canon batteries. How do you measure battery performance? I'm in the 'Battery Info' menu all the time, checking the level. I've seen and played with all the options in there, but other than 'Remaining Capacity,' I don't know what the others measure.

Shutter count: since when, and how does it relate to the current battery?
Recharge Performance: what does that mean? I've seen batteries in all 4 states, 0-3 bars. More on that later.
Registration: shrug emoji

I agree with @RDKirk. My first LP-E6 battery went in a Canon 50D. Long ago in battery-technology time. The LP-E6xx line is still basically from back then. They could do better if they started from scratch.

After that 50D I've usually owned 3 bodies at a time: two FF and a crop body. They've all used the same battery. I have a stable of batteries that I use interchangeably and indiscriminately. I've got a mix of Canon and aftermarket batteries, and any battery can go in any body. I'm swapping a dead one for a good one. That's the only criterium.

I can't tell the difference between Canon batteries and aftermarket batteries. With my last DSLRs, a battery would last me all day, most days. And if I had to swap one out, I'd know why. Busy day. I have 2 R5s and an R7 now. It takes 2 batteries, Canon or otherwise, to get through a day on a body that's getting more than a little use.

But those are horribly broad measurements. I use my cameras differently every time I go out. And when I'm done, it doesn't matter if the last battery I used has 80% left or 10% left, I'm done.

All that's to say, I have no problem with aftermarket batteries. I've owned dozens. I've had a couple crap out, but I'm paying $10-20 each, so that's a risk I can shoulder. When a new model comes out, I can afford to replace the whole rotation.

So school me on the 'Recharge Performance' scale. I'm a cheapskate. I buy aftermarket batteries and used cameras. I bought a used R5 a little while back that came with 6 (six!) genuine Canon LP-E6NH batteries. On the Recharge Performance scale, I got: (2) 2-bar, (3) 1-bar and (1) 0-bar batteries. What does that mean? I put the 2-bar batteries into the rotation, and the others in a drawer. Is that dumb? Is it smart? I don't know. I'm not sure I've ever seen a 3-bar Canon battery, but then I've never opened a new one.

My aftermarket batteries show 3 bars all the time. I suspect that's because they don't work at all in providing whatever the Recharge Performance scale measures. But honestly, it's comforting. 3 bars and 100%. Let's get to work.

Oh, and I use aftermarket chargers too. I've got a couple pretty nice ones. They charge everything. Never an issue.

 

[ramon-uk]

Recharge performance is just counting the number of times that the battery is recharged, as it gets nearer to the expected life of the battery then the bars are reduced, it tells you nothing about battery capacity and a battery can fail before it reaches 0 bars or go on for a long time afterwards. As an indicator of battery health it is pretty useless.
As you have guessed some cheap batteries do not have the necessary chip installed to provide the information to the camera so always appear as 3 bars. It is best just ignore the whole thing and always carry a spare battery.

 

[ShipleyNW]

Recharge performance is just counting the number of times that the battery is recharged, as it gets nearer to the expected life of the battery then the bars are reduced, it tells you nothing about battery capacity and a battery can fail before it reaches 0 bars or go on for a long time afterwards. As an indicator of battery health it is pretty useless.
As you have guessed some cheap batteries do not have the necessary chip installed to provide the information to the camera so always appear as 3 bars. It is best just ignore the whole thing and always carry a spare battery.

Is that one of the "restriction on functions" mentioned in the original post? What other restrictions happen with aftermarket or old-version batteries? I've never seen a list or noticed any restrictions while using a particular camera with particular battery.

I've always carried spares, but with mirrorless, it's more urgent. I've started strapping batteries to my belt now.

 

[ramon-uk]

Is that one of the "restriction on functions" mentioned in the original post? What other restrictions happen with aftermarket or old-version batteries? I've never seen a list or noticed any restrictions while using a particular camera with particular battery.

I've always carried spares, but with mirrorless, it's more urgent. I've started strapping batteries to my belt now.

I think the only other restriction is that because some cheap batteries have a lower capacity (despite how they are advertised) they may not be able to cope when the camera/lens is using a lot of current for IS and AF. Personally I have never had any problems.

Of course the biggest problem with 3rd party batteries as far as Canon is concerned is that you are not contributing to their wealth by paying over inflated prices.

 

[RodS57]

@ShipleyNW , as far as I can determine:
On the battery into screen

The shutter count number is the number of clicks since the battery was last charged

The bar graph for battery performance is not what I'd call a good representation of what is happening. It does not take all factors into account. It seems to use some metric, maybe stored in the on-battery chip to determine battery health.

On my last vacation I was averaging 600 clicks a day on my 90D. Battery performance shows 3 bars.

I use my 7D2 for wildlife. It can sit, unused for months. I've read the 7D2 has a capacitor instead of a button battery to maintain settings. The capacitor is charged by the main battery. It drains the main battery. The 7D2 shows 1 bar but when actively shooting (chasing BIF) I can easily get over 1400 click on a charge. To me, the battery is fine despite what the graph says.

1. This is the original battery in the 7D2. It's been charged 53 times.
2. The 90D battery is an unused spare I bought in 2016

Rod