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Canon EOS R7 Owners Unite! Discuss and Share Photos

Share your AF setup. Do you have a favorite settings video on YouTube?
I guess this is a generic question. I don’t follow the traditional set up where most split AF from the shutter and assign to the AF-ON. I have used it that way so I’m comfortable with both using the AF-ON or keeping the shutter half pressed for AF. For both my R7 and R62 I use the shutter for both AF and metering.

Eye detect changed everything. No matter what mapping preferences and shooting styles we had to adapt to it. I’m a big believer in since I paid good money for the tech, I let the camera do the work for me so I let try and find the eye first. Most of the time it’s great. To me it’s all about what to do when it’s not cooperating.

Some like to pre-focus on the subject first. I prefer to apply that when it does not cooperate or I want it on a specific eye in a group.

I mapped AF-ON for single point AF and the * button for Zone AF for BIF. I sometimes use Zone for static objects because the goal is to get my preferred subject in reasonable focus. When that happens I go back into Eye detect and the camera does the rest.

The way I’m set up I don’t have to lift my thumb off one button to place on another. I just pick the BBF I want to use and toggle it as many times as I need to.

For my type of shooting moving the AF point is too slow. I disabled the toggle and LCD. My single AF point is always in the centre. I physically move the camera and land the AF point/s on my subject. When the subject is in focus I release the BBF, Eye detect takes over and I then move the camera to compose. Not much composition for BIF. Easy to do for stills.

I’ve had Tracking Sensitivity set to -2 since my 7D in 2009. Accel/Decel is +1 or +2. +2 for very fast changes in speeds. Switching Tracked Subjects 0 or 1 depending on how erratic the subject is. 1 for erratic.

I’m in M mode and use Auto ISO. I’ve tried C1-3 in many combos. Currently I use it for quick shutter speed changes. For example at an air show shooting between jets and props. C3 is the slowest fps. M is for One Shot. I use the Green menus to quickly change subject detect and a few other AF related items.

This killed some time waiting for an oil change. I’ll post a few videos when I get home.
 
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I forgot a few things. I don't let my camera go to sleep when I'm shooting so I mapped the video button for sleep. This is a recent change. I'm going to mess around with the metering modes more often I assigned the M-Fn to change modes.

The R7 is has more options than my R5 had and most videos don't get into specifics of mapping with the Detail Set. This makes many videos generic because most AF menus, Tracking Sensitivity and Switching Tracked Subjects is the same for all.

This is for an R6 but one my favourite videos as he has some good visuals. Settings can be applied to other bodies.

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Jan as good videos. There are so many more on you tube.

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I got my R7 late in the fall. I don't mind shooting in the cold but I hate testing in the cold. I did a lot condo testing on my wife (which she hates). Test Santa for his super fine hairs, an owl on the cover of a bird book and the TV. TV is not too bad to test Eye AF options.

When we got to a nicer climate this on the first day of real shooting. AF passed the test pretty quickly.

_G7A1729.jpg
 
One thing my R62 has which I wish the R7 had. The ability to map Subject to Detect to button. I assigned that to the Green menus for both bodies as I like to keep things as consistent as possible.
 
I forgot a few things. I don't let my camera go to sleep when I'm shooting so I mapped the video button for sleep. This is a recent change. I'm going to mess around with the metering modes more often I assigned the M-Fn to change modes.

The R7 is has more options than my R5 had and most videos don't get into specifics of mapping with the Detail Set. This makes many videos generic because most AF menus, Tracking Sensitivity and Switching Tracked Subjects is the same for all.

This is for an R6 but one my favourite videos as he has some good visuals. Settings can be applied to other bodies.

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Jan as good videos. There are so many more on you tube.

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

At 9:45 on Jan's video he shows how the focus override works. He likes Spot focus but I prefer Single. At 10:20 he overrides eye detect to get focus back on the parrot. He moves the camera, not the AF point. Very effective for me. Notice he puts the Spot focus point on the body of the bird and after it focuses in he goes back into eye detect. Much faster than trying to get the on the eye or head itself. Doing portraits or other static objects moving the AF point would likely be better so you don't have to recompose.

One last thing you will notice is that he uses that white broken AF focus pre-focus square. I always use that as well. Page 3 of the A menus. AF Preview. If I lift my finger off past half way off the shutter button it kicks in and continues to AF. For Jan I think it engages when he lifts his thumb off the AD-ON to press the * and vice versa.

Over months of fine tuning that's what I came up with. I know I don't use all of the options that the Detail Set offers but I don't feel I need it to be that complex. I need fast AF recovery when AI does cooperate with my wishes. :)
 
At 9:45 on Jan's video he shows how the focus override works. He likes Spot focus but I prefer Single. At 10:20 he overrides eye detect to get focus back on the parrot. He moves the camera, not the AF point. Very effective for me. Notice he puts the Spot focus point on the body of the bird and after it focuses in he goes back into eye detect. Much faster than trying to get the on the eye or head itself. Doing portraits or other static objects moving the AF point would likely be better so you don't have to recompose.

One last thing you will notice is that he uses that white broken AF focus pre-focus square. I always use that as well. Page 3 of the A menus. AF Preview. If I lift my finger off past half way off the shutter button it kicks in and continues to AF. For Jan I think it engages when he lifts his thumb off the AD-ON to press the * and vice versa.

Over months of fine tuning that's what I came up with. I know I don't use all of the options that the Detail Set offers but I don't feel I need it to be that complex. I need fast AF recovery when AI does cooperate with my wishes. :)
Yes I have found it essential to have alternative BBF focus method for when subject/eye detect is getting confused. Mostly use spot except for in-flight where I have 9-point surround, but that may change.
 
Yes I have found it essential to have alternative BBF focus method for when subject/eye detect is getting confused. Mostly use spot except for in-flight where I have 9-point surround, but that may change.
The great part is there are so many options out there to customize. The 9 point (and 4) surround still uses the centre point as the primary and the outer points kick in to help, if if needs it. With Zone AF there are just more active AF points working for you. If 9 point works for you then great.

We know that we will never see which outer point kicked in to help the centre point in Servo. Not sure why Canon did that. DPP or your LCD will show if an outer point kicks in using One Shot. Rudy Winston once said in an article or video that Expansion AF works the same way in Servo as it does in One Shot. I put it to the test.

In One Shot I focused on a plain wall with no contrast. I would move the camera around to get try to AF. Eventually it did. Sometimes the centre point kicked on its own. Sometimes an outer expansion kicked in to help. Typically it was only one outer point. When it did it was first and was immediately followed by the centre point. It was like the outer point told the centre you are good to go. DPP, etc always showed the centre point and an outer point. With subjects with more contrast more outer would likely kick in. I have not shot in One Shot for well over 10 years.

Canon pulled tons of excellent videos, articles and blogs. I found a few on Wayback but I don't have the desire to hunt them all down. I just looked and guess what. One of two I have left is this one. I forgot I had it. I had more about this subject.

 
The great part is there are so many options out there to customize. The 9 point (and 4) surround still uses the centre point as the primary and the outer points kick in to help, if if needs it. With Zone AF there are just more active AF points working for you. If 9 point works for you then great.

We know that we will never see which outer point kicked in to help the centre point in Servo. Not sure why Canon did that. DPP or your LCD will show if an outer point kicks in using One Shot. Rudy Winston once said in an article or video that Expansion AF works the same way in Servo as it does in One Shot. I put it to the test.

In One Shot I focused on a plain wall with no contrast. I would move the camera around to get try to AF. Eventually it did. Sometimes the centre point kicked on its own. Sometimes an outer expansion kicked in to help. Typically it was only one outer point. When it did it was first and was immediately followed by the centre point. It was like the outer point told the centre you are good to go. DPP, etc always showed the centre point and an outer point. With subjects with more contrast more outer would likely kick in. I have not shot in One Shot for well over 10 years.

Canon pulled tons of excellent videos, articles and blogs. I found a few on Wayback but I don't have the desire to hunt them all down. I just looked and guess what. One of two I have left is this one. I forgot I had it. I had more about this subject.

As I say the 9 point I am not sure of. The idea was the selectivity of single point with some fudge for subject movement.

I have never found a use for single shot.
 
Shot I took on a recent trip to Guatemala. Not particularly fantastic, but pretty impressed considering it was shot from the open window of a moving vehicle at night on an unlit roadway.

Shot in RAW with the kit lens, 12800 ISO and cleaned up with the new "Denoise" in PS

ER7_2262 by Wayne Wilson, on Flickr
Canon EOS R7 1/40 second, f/5.6, 12800 ISO
RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 IS STM @50mm
 
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